Thursday, December 6, 2012

Trois Mamelles

IMG_0638

Strictly speaking, it should be 1 Mamelle because we climbed only one of the 3 breasts...

The last time I had climbed a mountain was Corps de Garde, last year. Hence 2 months ago, thanks to the GPS tracks provided by fitsy.com, I ventured towards my first trek of 2012.

IMG_2095

Time to get back in the game.

 

GPS Visualizer  Google Maps output

The start of the trail starts at Bassin, near Palma. While following the Phoenix/Beaux Songes link road, turn left towards Bassin at the only roundabout.

 

IMG_1713

The road towards the mountains is pretty much unmissable.

 

IMG_0176

Unless you're using Apple maps for navigation. Most of these "roads" are not driveable. Certainly not the one below which actually cuts through the mountain. Even Google maps has non-existent roads, but not to the same extent as Apple maps.

 

IMG_1720

I would recommend leaving your vehicle at the houses near the first bridge before following the track.

 

IMG_1721

IMG_1733

Plus, there’s a tap at the place of worship next to the river bank, which you'll eventually need after the climb.

 

IMG_0273

The J.Nehru/Holyrood road is a very busy one. Keep a watch for the sugarcane lorries barrelling up the narrow road.

 

IMG_1730

IMG_1734

After leaving the 1950 bridge over Rivière Bassin, there'll be some more bridges up ahead.

 

IMG_1747

Spooky. Did someone die here?

Perhaps a coincidence, but were we to take the suggested Palma road in the GPS track, we would have probably come across a body

 

IMG_1748

IMG_1749

IMG_1753

One side of this bridge was built in 1953 and the other was completed in 1958. Can’t believe people were so lazy back then.

 

IMG_1755

Yet another stream under the shadow of palm trees.

 

IMG_1762

IMG_1764

IMG_1765

At the end of the road, there were some warehouses storing heavy machinery.

 

IMG_1766

IMG_1767

& a checkpoint for a private road used by Medine Sugar Estate. The fields in this region as well as the mountains all belong to the Medine S.E.

 

IMG_1768

IMG_1769

Amidst the coming & going of the sugarcane lorries, heavy machinery were at work clearing the land for a residential project.

 

The path to follow was straight ahead.

 

IMG_1789

The iconic Montagne du Rempart, most commonly seen from Tamarin.

 

IMG_1773

& the Mamelle we would be climbing, the centre peak, at a height of 666 m. You read that right. 666 m according to the atlas I have. Some books report it as 629 m. Looking into the GPS trail file, it was 675 m.

 

IMG_1794

IMG_1795

IMG_1797

Up ahead, we came across yet another religious shrine.

 

IMG_1798

IMG_1799

Mauritians pretend to be very religious. Yet, the same cannot be said for their grasp of grammar.

 

IMG_1802

IMG_1807

More nearly dried streams. All of them eventually end up as Rivière du Rempart.

 

IMG_1808

IMG_1811

Having emerged from the clump of trees, we could now ponder on the monumental climb that lay ahead of us.

 

IMG_1818

Oh, the things a photographer will do…

 

IMG_0309

… to get a picture while…

 

IMG_0308

… putting himself at risk.

 

IMG_0312

As we trudged along, we met a group of cyclists going the opposite way. I’ve always wanted to do one of these bike trips. Well, one day…

 

IMG_1814

Although mechanization may have taken over sugarcane harvesting, there remain plots of uneven land where manual labour is still necessary.

 

IMG_1824

IMG_1825

In my childhood, that was how I remembered the harvesting season. The workers (using that special ladder) or very rarely, the machine, would load the carrier and the Bedford truck would pull it onto itself.

 

IMG_1834

IMG_1837

At this point, my map reading skills failed me & I couldn't decide where to go next. So I grabbed my N900 & fired up the GPS tracking to follow the trail.

 

IMG_1845

It's very easy to get lost in these parts, especially when the sugarcane hasn't been harvested and where every other turn looks the same. Our journey till now had been a steady climb and as we were nearing the mountain, the road turned rockier.

 

IMG_1850

IMG_1851 Panorama

The start of the mountain climb was supposed to be around this boulder, but I couldn't locate it.

 

IMG_1861

IMG_1862

After taking a short break to stabilise the GPS signal, I discovered it was only a few metres away.

 

IMG_1863

IMG_1864

The entrance was indeed very well hidden & easy to overlook with so many trees & bushes in the way.

 

IMG_1868

IMG_1866

The track looked very much like the one on Lion Mountain - barely used & unkempt.

 

IMG_1872

IMG_1870

Alas, that meant we had to forge our path through the low-hanging branches and treacherous boulders. More than once, we got stuck or bashed our heads in the branches.

 

IMG_1875

IMG_1873

The GPS signal under the trees wasn’t great. Fortunately, the way was indicated by blue markers spray painted on rocks.

 

IMG_1876

IMG_1879

Our first rock climb of the day, with one of my pixelised friends taking photos of my plight.

 

IMG_1880

The view on Bassin/Candos.

 

IMG_1881

Not having hiked for months, the climb was brutal, for me.

 

IMG_1883

IMG_1884

Made even more gruelling with the sun shining overhead and no wind coming through the trees.

 

IMG_1891 Panorama

Of course, I had to stop time and again to take a rest panoramas.

 

IMG_1898

The trail was peppered with aloe plants, mostly the Mauritius Hemp, useful to hoist ourselves. As my hands painfully discovered, some of them do come with thorns.

 

IMG_1896

As is always the case in these adventures, I usually lag behind because I take too many photos. Which often means the other two moving ahead, losing the trail & going off in the wrong direction.

 

IMG_1908

& that was exactly what happened here. They were attempting to climb a rock facade...

 

IMG_1911

IMG_1910

... while the trail was up ahead. Definitely the worst explorers in history.

 

IMG_1920_stitch

IMG_1923

To be fair, the path at this point had narrowed down to a few feet, with a deep gully just a metre away.

 

IMG_0386

Just a plane. To give you a break from these monotonous green photos.

Incidentally, Trois Mamelles (like Corps de Garde) is near one of the waypoints used by air traffic for landing procedures. Namely IPL13 & PLS31.

 

IMG_1926

IMG_1932

Back in the undergrowth.

 

IMG_1935

We were now approaching the shoulder of the mountain, between the middle & west Mamelles.

 

IMG_1962

Up this high, the view was mind-blowing.

 

IMG_1941

IMG_1956

IMG_1964

On the other side though, we found an even more fabulous sight of the South-West regions.

 

IMG_1952

IMG_1954

IMG_1955

The savannah-like regions of Bon Asile, Magenta & Yemen stretched for kilometres before us.

 

IMG_1953

Suddenly, an unknown cry repeatedly pierced the winds. We saw a monkey & fruit bats hovering in the forest canopy, but we couldn't figure out the source.

 

IMG_0404

I can confirm it wasn’t a deer. We saw none of them. Nice mirador.

 

IMG_1959

The two Mamelles lay on either side of us.

 

IMG_1961

IMG_1963

However, only one of them can be climbed. The climb from here looked pretty straight-forward.

 

Or so we thought.

 

As we climbed higher, the scenery became even more spectacular.

 

Obligatory video.

 

IMG_1966

IMG_1992

So far, we hadn’t encountered any difficulties.

 

IMG_1999

IMG_2000

Until here, where the path narrowed with nothing on either side and a rock wall to climb.

 

IMG_2004

To my utter shame, even with the rung in the rock, I had to call one of the explorers who were stuck ahead to give me a hand to hoist myself up.

 

IMG_2006

& then I discovered why they were stuck. The blue arrow indicated the way & right in the middle was... a wasp nest.

 

IMG_2010

Yep, in that hole. & we didn't bring any fire with us. No matches, no lighter, no magnifier, no steel wool...

 

IMG_2009

After debating for a while, the other two decided to go further to the left & climb from there. After unsuccessfully attempting that detour, I had no other choice but to sneak past the wasp nest.

 

IMG_2012

So much ado about nothing - the wasps didn't even care.

 

IMG_2011

That was instantly forgotten as I saw what was ahead.

 

IMG_2017

By far the most terrifying part of the climb. Only the rock to hold as I had to feel my way around that rock shelf.

 

IMG_2018

With the void just one arm length away.

 

IMG_2022

Further ahead, there was only 30 cm of space allowing single file movement.

 

IMG_2020

IMG_2029

If you overcome this part, the rest of the climb becomes a lot easier. But only if you build up the courage necessary to overcome it…

 

A short rest to slow down our heart rate & stem our adrenaline rush as we admired the landscape.

 

IMG_2030

IMG_2051

We resumed the climb, stopping briefly to admire these steps carved by nature.

 

IMG_2049

The summit was well within reach.

 

IMG_2055

Just a few more steps…

 

IMG_2057

First!

 

IMG_2058

IMG_2059

Oh my…

 

IMG_2063

IMG_2064

Breathtaking!

 

IMG_2061

Literally.

 

IMG_2066

Wait, what? Aliens!

 

IMG_2069

Having set off at 8:10, it took us nearly 3 hours to reach the summit at 11:17. 2h 18 min spent on the climb.

 

IMG_2100 Panorama

Worth every second of it. For this.

 

IMG_2175 Panorama

A 360º bird’s eye view of the island.

 

Paradise on Earth, etc, etc…

 

IMG_2078

IMG_2077

IMG_2169

The plains of Bon Asile, Magenta & Yemen. & to the left, the Tamarind Falls.

 

IMG_2211

This is where the Sept Cascades are found. One of the remaining areas of Mauritius which we haven't explored yet.

 

IMG_2170

IMG_2204

Le Morne & Montagne Tamarin are another of them. The haze at this altitude was very bad. All these photos had to be lengthily post-processed.

 

IMG_2068

The East Mamelle. With almost no clouds, we were getting roasted up top, even with the copious amount of sunscreen. Not a complaint, just an observation. I’ll take sunny over cloudy any day.

 

IMG_2199

Curepipe. Trou aux Cerfs to the right. The Bambous mountains far behind.

 

IMG_2200

Piton du Milieu. & Vacoas.

 

IMG_2121

The Holyrood road that goes up to Glen Park.

 

IMG_2218

Bassin. Those colours are unreal.

 

IMG_2214

& those textures.

 

IMG_2201

IMG_2202

Corps de Garde and Candos Hill.

 

IMG_2122

The area being cleared by Medine SE.

 

IMG_2123

The path we had taken to reach the foot of the mountain.

 

IMG_2073

The one thing I hadn’t mentioned until now were the Paille-en-Queue birds circling around us throughout the entire climb. The White-tailed Tropicbirds were very hard to capture, even with focus-tracking.

 

IMG_2213

Pigeons! Every single mountain we’ve climbed so far, we’ve come across them.

 

IMG_2134

IMG_2119

Montagne Rempart, which definitely looks climbable. & the nipples on the third Mamelle.

 

IMG_2161

Our peaceful observation of the vistas was interrupted when we noticed a group of 3 tourists also making the climb. Later on during our descent we would come across another couple. When did the mountain become so crowded?

 

That was our cue to start the journey downwards. While we waited for them to reach the top, I took this video.

 

IMG_2225

After spending 1h 20 min on the summit, we started down. (& in case you’re wondering, none of the tourists had been stung by wasps.)

 

IMG_2227

IMG_2229

While I was dreading going by the rock shelf, it wasn’t scary at all. Probably because we had already done it once. Or that climbing down is a lot easier than climbing up.

 

IMG_2233

Well, not really. The only difficulty I had (once again) was at the rung. Because I couldn't see where I had to place my foot, I had to let myself be guided by my friends. It turned out to be easier than expected.

 

IMG_2236

IMG_2240

Going further down involved more crawling than climbing down. & a lot of groping at branches, shrubs and plants.

 

IMG_2248

A necessary stop. Because… what a sight!

 

IMG_2244

IMG_2250

Well, time to get back to the track. There was still a long way to go.

 

IMG_2252

IMG_2254

By this time, the climb had already exacted its toll on my body and each downward step strained every last muscle.

 

IMG_2257

Not to forget the lack of wind in the dense foliage.

 

IMG_2261

At last, rays of light pierced the forest, as a portal appeared to announce the end of the climb.

 

IMG_2267

Time taken - 1h 45 min. Not bad.

 

IMG_2279

IMG_2283

Our agony wasn't over; we still had to go through the rocky sugarcane roads.

 

IMG_2282

IMG_2290

The workers had disappeared. Probably because of the sun. Even we couldn’t wait to join the shade of the trees.

 

IMG_2295

Even though we longed for a splash of water, these stagnant streams weren’t very appealing.

 

IMG_2301

IMG_2306

We had one last stretch of land to cross before we could rest. & this is where we encountered a new difficulty – the sand-like dried earth seeping though our shoes.

 

IMG_2310

Finally, civilization.

 

IMG_2293

What a climb that had been. In terms of difficulty, I would place Trois Mamelles in the same bracket as Corps de Garde. Mostly because of the uncovered nature of the terrain. But slightly more difficult due to some parts that required climbing with the utmost concentration. The reward though far exceeds the efforts – the spine-tingling landscapes. If only I had a CPL to remove haze, all these photos would look twice better. The lesson I learnt that day is to always keep a matchbox or lighter with you. You may never know when you’ll need to start a fire. & some old clothes to burn if you expect to encounter wasps.

To sum up, don’t climb Trois Mamelles unless:

  • You have a GPS device to follow the track.
  • You bring rope & fire.
  • You have proper protection against the sun.
  • You are a goat.

IMG_0482

Yes. Of all the things we saw that day, this was the biggest surprise of all. A goat climbing Trois Mamelles alone by jumping on the near-vertical rocks. Wow!

 

Related:

10 comments

Robert Fitzjohn

> This is where the Sept Cascades are found. One of the remaining areas of Mauritius which we haven't explored yet.

I disagree, you still have to do all the tracks I posted, and then do those which are not available yet, eg: Camizard, Moka Range, Mt. Blanche etc...
 You need to take the time to study through our bible, Mts of Mauritius, a climber's guide to find opportunities :-D

But thanks for the write up, it's good to have a fresh perspective of the track. I had to do it alone so had other preoccupations on my mind.

carrotmadman6

Let me do the known ones first.

Uncharted territory comes later. :)

Siganus Sutor

Spooky. Did someone die here?► I'd tend to see it as part of an arms' race between religious zealots, catholic and hindu shrines trying to outnumber each other, one putting his own mark in reaction to the other's territorial claim. What a holy place Mauritius is.

Nitish

Incredible!! I would love to go there one day! Your article could be useful! And yeah, that goat was probably wondering the same thing about you guys! "How the hell did humans get up here?!"

Siganus Sutor

Touzour 3 mamel mem ? Sa post-la pankor fer piti ??

carrotmadman6

 Lego-Darth-Vader-man is a bit jetlagged right now, but will be back in business very soon. :)

Siganus Sutor

Jetlagged? Has he been travelling to Mars by any chance? Or to another galaxy?

carrotmadman6

http://www.flickr.com/photos/carrotmadman6/8448251356/in/photostream

Siganus Sutor

Wow! that's quite a ride! Did Legoman/DarthVader — who is not made of silicon I believe — go there for a job interview?

Ashveen Ram

Nice! Very bandwidth-demanding blog but worth every effort. Thumbs Up!

Post a Comment

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...